Having reached Scotland on our tour of the Eastern half of the UK, we're heading off in a couple of weeks to fill in a few gaps on the Western Coast around Anglesey in North Wales. We are, of course, heartbroken that it's no longer home territory for a couple of well known royals; hopefully, I won't need rescuing by helicopter.
Details in the usual place.
Don't usually do this kind of reflective post.... but we've being doing our coastal thing again, this time for three weeks or so along the north east coast from Whitby to Berwick-upon-Tweed, and it was so full of beauty, history and culture that it deserves comment here.
We were able, in Northumberland particularly, to walk on virtually deserted stretches of sand, washed by the sea and hidden behind windswept dunes: desolation and beauty. The sense of history, both recent and distant, was present almost everywhere we travelled, from the preserved remains of castles and museums to the remnants of the coal and iron ore mining industries; all of it fascinating. When we asked questions, sought help or simply chatted, we met so many friendly people; we'd have loved to spend more time here but we are, of course, on a mission;...
...the trip, for the east coast in any event, has reached the English-Scottish border. The next time we venture into these parts will be in Scotland. Can't wait.
Details here in the coastal tour tab.
It's time for another mini adventure in our little Ford Ka; we choose a day long trip from our book: The Backroads of Southern Spain by David Baird. We've met David and are slowly working our way through his recommended trips into 'Old Spain', stopping at the white painted villages away from the coast, accessed by some 'interesting' little roads. We never fail to be entranced by the stories the villages hide - from Moorish times, through the Civil War to their current activities. Of course, the wonderful, brooding mountainous scenery on the trip goes without saying.
This time it's just a day trip:
Nerja >Macharaviaya >Benamocarra >Almáchar >El Borge >Cútar > Comares
Macharaviaya, once known as 'Little Madrid', owed its fame to the wealth and importance of the Gálvez family. José de Gálvez who, as Minister of the Indies, was instrumental in expelling the Jesuits from Spain's colonies in South America.
Then on to Almáchar 'the Capital of the Moscatel Grape and Garlic Soup'...
El Borge, a left leaning village (as many are... and that's no surprise given the turbulent history) with a Moorish looking church and a street named Che Guevara.... There's a lot more interesting history here; it was once terrorised by the 19th Century outlaw El Bizco.
....and so we travel on to Cútar, a village with a population of around 650; at the foot of the village, the Aina Alcharia spring is of some fame. A plaque showing a donkey with the message (in Spanish) 'alleviate my thirst as I lighten your work' at least shows some appreciation for the toil these animals put in. Luckily, we were not lured to our doom by the Bird of Death which apparently haunts the surrounding ravines.
In 2003, while a house was being renovated here, an ancient copy of the Koran was discovered, estimated to be around 600 years old, along with other Moorish documents. Again, a reminder, if we needed it, of the stories and history these villages hold.
Passing Benamargosa we see the hundreds of citrus trees in the valley floor with an increasing number of avacado trees and wonder if the drastic water shortage of recent years, and particularly the current months, will impact on the lives of the people in this working agricultural town.
The road climbs steeply from here, twisting upwards towards our last destination, Comares at around 740m above sea level.
We never fail to be wowed by this Moorish village with its winding streets, perched on the mountain top. The link says more than I can - and more eloquently. We take a (very) late lunch here, enjoying the fantastic views before heading back down the winding roads to Nerja and home.
Great Trip
We have no big adventures planned for 2023 but, between the spring marriage of our youngest, Georgina, to Luke, we'll be spending a couple of months in Nerja where we have things to do (as well as enjoying ourselves of course).
We've also planned to continue our caravan coastal tour on the north east coast of the UK, reaching Berwick upon Tweed at the Scottish border by the beginning of June
As usual, the coastal trip will go in the 2023 tab.
Let's see how all that goes...
Meanwhile, it's Carnival!:
Celebrate - our Leigh on Sea building work is almost finished!
After living with builders since May we need a short, wonderful break. Meeting with friends, tapas, music and sea. Where on earth are we?
Visit to the La Herradura international classical guitar competition. Breathtaking skills, wonderful music.
Malaga Christmas Lights - we always try to see these when we're here; this year they feature a high tech drone show....
A great visit indeed - always uplifting.
Before we head back to the UK, we take the Spanish Ka to a local Ford dealer to have a new remote key progammed in because I lost the last one on a mountain walk. The process takes a couple of hours apparently. After spending that time (enjoyably) in Velez-Malaga, we find out that the wrong remote has been sent - Grrr. A job for February then. The Ka gets lots of admiration from the dealership, though - we've had it 12 years and it still looks pretty much like new.
In any event, we fly back to London Stansted at the end of the week so, after watching Spain lose to Morocco by penalties, we head to the Balcon to join the Nerja throngs watching the Christmas lights being switched on.
Obviously, we have to pop into the Bar Redondo for a vino and tapa before catching the late town bus up the hill to home.
A final walk with our group, hugs, goodbyes....
(Only 7 of us today but 6 nationalities!)
....and then I guess it's clearing up and packing away. This feels more like an uplifting holiday than the home where, until very recently, we spent most of our non travelling time.
See you soon, Nerja.
Well, travelling is on the back burner for a little while; we have major work going on at our Leigh on Sea house - probably until late September, so our travelling plans for 2022 are limited to some short trips to the coast until then. We hope to escape to Neja for a few weeks when construction is completed before we return to get it all decorated and finished for Christmas. We've already used the 'van to escape the noise and dust for a few days, while still being close to monitor the action.
Local Escape
Good news for us, though, as we have the caravan back from a visit to WKD caravans in Marks Tey complete with a new panoramic window; that's around a year since it first split and I've bodged a repair with sealer and gaffa tape twice. It's now been fixed under Swift warranty and the delay is really a Covid closure problem through German and UK factory closures (the window assembly is manufactured in Germany). Cross fingers for trouble free touring for a while; we're conscious that we've put the 'van through some very rigorous trips in its six year life and we've had great support from Swift via WKD and we're in no rush to change it. It feels like a comfortable pair of slippers and its size and construction are perfect for our long-trip adventurous touring, despite a couple of problems. I really can't understand the latest craze to make 'vans as wide as possible. Ever since our Iceland test of this 'van and its touring credentials we've been fans.
So, a travelling update:
Derby in an Airbnb:
Basically, we were looking after our granddaughter but managed a town visit, including the innovative Museum of Making, giving an insight into the history of construction and engineering in the area. The town is wonderfully well preserved but the newish large shopping centre draws the shoppers away. There's a great riverside park here, too.
Museum of Making
Around Clevedon
We spent a few days exploring on the coast here in the West Country after taking the 'van down as a base after attending a memorial service for our old friend (and ex Headteacher boss, many years ago) Mary Marsham. More in the coastal tour tab.
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That's all for now; not a lot of travelling.. but the reward, we hope, will be a home that we love in a place we want to stay.
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