Sunday, April 23, 2023

Backroads Beauty

It's time for another mini adventure in our little Ford Ka; we choose a day long trip from our book: The Backroads of Southern Spain by David Baird. We've met David and are slowly working our way through his recommended trips into 'Old Spain', stopping at the white painted villages away from the coast, accessed by some 'interesting' little roads. We never fail to be entranced by the stories the villages hide - from Moorish times, through the Civil War to their current activities. Of course, the wonderful, brooding mountainous scenery on the trip goes without saying.

This time it's just a day trip:

 

So off we set...


Nerja >Macharaviaya >Benamocarra >Almáchar >El Borge >Cútar > Comares 

Macharaviaya, once known as 'Little Madrid', owed its fame to the wealth and importance of the Gálvez family. José de Gálvez who, as Minister of the Indies, was instrumental in expelling the Jesuits from Spain's colonies in South America. 


In the neo classical church's vault lies José de Gálvez:


That man again 

Then on to Almáchar 'the Capital of the Moscatel Grape and Garlic Soup'...



A clue to how this community has thrived and prospered......




Onwards to El Borge..


El Borge, a left leaning village (as many are... and that's no surprise given the turbulent history) with a Moorish looking church and a street named Che Guevara.... There's a lot more interesting history here; it was once terrorised by the 19th Century outlaw El Bizco.



....and so we travel on to Cútar, a village with a population of around 650; at the foot of the village, the Aina Alcharia spring is of some fame. A plaque showing a donkey with the message (in Spanish) 'alleviate my thirst as I lighten your work' at least shows some appreciation for the toil these animals put in. Luckily, we were not lured to our doom by the Bird of Death which apparently haunts the surrounding ravines.



In 2003, while a house was being renovated here, an ancient copy of the Koran was discovered, estimated to be around 600 years old, along with other Moorish documents. Again, a reminder, if we needed it, of the stories and history these villages hold.

Passing Benamargosa we see the hundreds of citrus trees in the valley floor with an increasing number of avacado trees and wonder if the drastic water shortage of recent years, and particularly the current months, will impact on the lives of the people in this working agricultural town.

The road climbs steeply from here, twisting upwards towards our last destination, Comares at around 740m above sea level.



We never fail to be wowed by this Moorish village with its winding streets, perched on the mountain top. The link says more than I can - and more eloquently. We take a (very) late lunch here, enjoying the fantastic views before heading back down the winding roads to Nerja and home.



Great Trip



Sunday, April 16, 2023

Semana Santa - of course..