Masks, Sanitiser, Gloves: Covid 19 year
Trip 1: Seaford to Beachy Head
09/07 - 16/07
We've escaped lockdown at last, taking a seven day trip to Brighton Caravan & Motorhome Club site to fill in a part of the south coast we somehow managed to miss on previous visits. We also catch up with good friends in the flesh (suitably socially distanced of course) rather than the usual zoom chat: strange times indeed.
Anyhow, here begins our 2020 costal tour:
Before heading west, we revisit Brighton promenade but without the crowds that we remember; we like this area and thought seriously about moving down here some years ago. The destroyed old pier serves as a monument of times past:
We stop at Seaford and explore the deserted historic site of Tide Mills to the east before walking the town. Because it's Covid time, the museum and Crypt art gallery are, of course, closed - which is a great pity and will be a recurring feature of this trip, I guess.
Here's Seaford's cliff-top nature reserve, to the west, with the white Seven Sisters cliffs in the background:
With friends, we spend a day walking the seven sisters cliff tops from the car park above Cuckmere Haven, returning via Friston Forest. Highly recommended.
We visit Cuckmere Haven Beach (after a couple of days delay*), which is a 30 minute walk from the car park. There's a great view of Seven Sisters, looking west from here:
* Sue spends 9 hours in A&E over two days getting her damaged eye seen to after an accident unrolling the caravan canopy. Not too serious in the end but this was a stressful experience as no support (me) allowed in with her and sitting alone for 9 hours not knowing the worst, 6 of those with a dripping wound, is absolutely no joke at all, Covid times or not.
We test the water between visits with a walk above Brighton Marina - a really ambitious and seemingly successful project constructed between 1971 and 1979. David Hodges of the Louis de Soissons Partnership was the celebrated architect.
After the smugglers haven of Cuckmere Haven, we visit Birling Gap which, as might be guessed, was another great place for landing 18th Century contraband. The smugglers HQ was based in the nearby East Dean apparantly.
Looking East from Birling Gap; it's the Severn Sisters again:
Finally, wounded Sue or not, we take a brilliant cliff walk from Birling Gap to Beachy Head.
The original Beachy Head lighthouse (Belle Toute Lighthouse) was constructed at the headland nearer to Birling Gap but was often obscured by sea mist - hence the construction of the second lighthouse, strangely, at the foot of the cliff which, even more strangely, wasn't frequently obscured by the said sea mists.
Here's the Belle Toute Lighthouse, which is now a private residence. In 1999 it was moved 17m away from the cliff on hydraulic rams. Incredible - but it might not be enough as the chalk cliff erosion continues apace.
Beneath Beachy Head sits the later lighthouse
Well, that's enough for now - let's go home, recover and spend more time sitting in NHS eye hospitals.
Trip 2: Around Herne Bay
14/09 - 18/09
Another short trip, this time because we're selling our home and near to be within striking distance. After pitching up the outfit at the Caravan and Motorhome Club's Bearsted site we collapse into our chairs and enjoy the relaxation which seems to have been missing lately.
Next day we visit the old village of Herne to see the medieval church of St Martin:
wouldn't fancy this at night
..and also the black smock windmill from the 1780's:
It's another day and another town, this time cool Whitstable, a growing refuge for savvy Londoners and the like. We like it too. Surprisingly, the house prices haven't gone though the roof yet.
We have a great, Covid safe (we think), lunch in the Lonely Planet recommended Samphire. This takes a long time because we keep going with courses and coffee. Wonderful place (the baked cod and samphire was OK, too).
Whitstable Harbour
Damn - missed the foodie pic
Last day..
We head for the village of Lower Halstow which is a nice surprise at the end of a single track road. It has a little harbour with a moored Thames Barge and a (locked) Saxon church - St. Mary of Antioch.
Onward...
Milton Creek in Sittingbourne wasn't such a nice surprise as a trading estate and fast food outlets had (somewhat tastelessly!) been created here science our coastal book was written. The Sittingbourne and Kemsley Light Railway terminus is here but closed when we visit and access to the wharf is closed off. It all looks like a wasted opportunity somehow. At least a skateboard park has been provided for the youths of Sittingbourne.
A quick visit to the town and a coffee in Costa and that's all...
We have to head home tomorrow as we have two more viewings of our house so it's back to base and packing up - which really doesn't take long.
Might have a 🍷.
Short and sweet this one.
Around Folkestone
28/09 - 01/10
We decide to escape the stresses of house selling by nipping over the Thames crossing to the Bearsted CAMC site in Kent - again. Once there, we plan to fill in some of the places around Folkestone that we missed when we were here in 2010.
Or So We Thought
Almost as soon as we get here and sort the 'van we get a call from our agent; our house is sold (again!) with a short chain at our previously agreed figure. Hell! We hastily arrange second viewings for our short shortlist and drive back the next day. Decision made, price negotiated - we have a house! - well, a quirky cottage, miles smaller than our current home but with parking and great views near to the seafront**. We drive back to Kent and OPEN A BOTTLE OF RED. No Champers in the 'van you see, but red's more than fine. Did we really do that?
** EDIT - Or so we thought...After surveys and searches we decide to withdraw from the purchase for a number of reasons and, after more viewings and a gazumping, we eventually secure a lovely refurbished 30's semi in a position that's perfect for us near Leigh town and the sea. It's a fraught sellers' market out there though.
Anyway, next day we get on with our coastal tour around Folkestone, our first stop being the Battle of Britain museum. Amazing collection of recovered crash parts plus some replica hurricanes and a ME 109 or two. Descriptions past their best but well worth it. No pics - not allowed - but a mug of tea in the café goes down well.
Heading to Sandgate, we walk the esplanade to see the small fishermen's cottages, many now being turned into holiday homes. The nearby remains of Sandgate Castle date from Henry VIII's time.
Heading into Folkestone, we walk the Leas, a nice clifftop promenade with a stylish war memorial:
The tide's out in the harbour, stranding the fishing boats. We walk along the Stade to reach East cliff Sands. All rather nice.
Figure looking out from Sunny Beach - East Cliff Sands
Heading back to town, we walk up through the 'cool' arty old town with its art shops and cafes, including a rather nice tapas bar.
Time to head back to the 'van before the rain sets in. Great day.
So now it's our last day of this mini jaunt and we see some really interesting stuff with an uplifting walk under the white cliffs at the Warren - which is scrub, grassland and woodland formed by major landslips over the years.
We walk through the scrub, returning along the seafront path alongside the coastal protection measures designed to reduce erosion of the chalk cliffs. It's good to get the walking gear on again.
It wasn't possible to see the Battle of Britain Memorial, sadly, as its opening times have been reduced in these Covid times; we resolve to revisit.
Samphire Ho, below Shakespeare Cliff
Samphire Ho gets its name from a scene in King Lear, were Edgar describes the cliff to his blind grandfather and the 'dreadful trade' of gathering samphire from the cliffs.
As we walk along the concrete protection, we see a spitfire (or replica) from the nearby airfield flying parallel to the white cliffs which is a bit of a seminal moment for us and a good note on which to end this trip.
Kent Again
13/10 - 17/10
We're still plugging the gaps in our coverage of the Kent coast - and this time we're based in Canterbury at the Camping and Caravanning Club's rather nice site. We've stayed here a couple of times in the past and it's an ideal base for the eastern side of Kent with both north and south coasts within striking distance - as they need to be.
Deal is the first port of call - and a really nice start to this trip. A old Cinque Port, the town now has a rather upmarket historic air with a main (pedestrian) street that would certainly be 'vibrant' in non-Covid times... and it's not doing too badly today.
We visit Deal Castle, built in the shape of a Tudor rose by Henry VIII, along with others fortifications along this coast at the height of the threat of invasion from catholic France. We have English heritage membership so these treats are 'free' for us; we have to pre-book online (easy on the 'phone) as is often the case because of Covid precautions.
Unfortunately, the Timeball Tower museum is Covid-Closed and, even more unfortunately, the timeball, one of the few remaining working timeballs in the world isn't - working, that is. A great pity - hope it's soon restored to health.
Neighbouring Warmer also has its own castle and, although the castle isn't open, the rather wonderful historic gardens are.
After a nice lie-in listening to the rain on the caravan roof, we head to the north coast under brightening skies this time to see, first, the twin towers of of the ruined St. Mary's Church at Reculver. The church and monastry was founded by King Egbert of Kent in 669 and was central to a Roman fort contructed in the 3rd Century AD to guard the Wantsum Channel which once separated the Isle of Thanet from the mainland. The Church remains now perch close to the cliff face, reminding us of the erosion of this coast since those times.
We drive a short distance eastwards, park, and walk along the coast towards Herne Bay, passing Bishopstone Glen, a small ravine cutting through the cliffs of Reculver country park. The bracing walk takes around 40 minutes so we refuel with cake and coffee in an open air 1930's café in Herne Bay before returning to the car and heading home.
Next day we head to Kingsdown, north of Dover.
The village's shingle beach is bounded by fishermen's cottages, many now holiday homes, while refurbished and new homes provide wonderful views of the channel. It's here that the famous range of chalk cliffs guarding Dover begin.
Moving on, we drive down a narrow, twisting road with passing places to St Margaret's Bay, the closest point to France (just 21 miles) and a favourite starting site for channel swimmers. The white chalk cliffs tower over the bay and create a favourable micro climate where subtropical plants thrive but, unfortunately we're too late to see the gardens and bronze statue of Winston Churchill after climbing up to see..
France! Remember when we used to be European citizens, free to travel, live and work over there.... before we went mad.
We drive up to the Dover Patrol Memorial, the tall obelisk being a memorial to the personnel who died patrolling the channel in the two world wars.
We're meeting friends at Dover Castle tomorrow, our last day in the area; strangely they're moving house too so we can compare stress levels.
... it's tomorrow now... So after discussing house selling (a problem shared is NOT a problem halved).. we tour the parts of Dover Castle that are open and it's not a disappointment - must come back and see the rest after Covid. Great to share with friends, too.
On the way back we call in to see Louis Blériot's memorial; it's not a lot to look at from down here but it is actually on the spot where he landed which is quite something if you think about it.
Finally we pop into Dover itself as we've only ever driven to the ferry in times past. We think lonely planet is a bit harsh in it's description of the town; it's a town living in the shadow of the great castle - which can't be easy can it?
So it's fuel, back to the van and a relax before the trip back home tomorrow.
End of this trip..
Hurst Castle to Freshwater Bay
25/10 - 20/10
Where is that you might ask..... well it's around Lymington towards Southampton and this is another coastal gap we have to fill. These short trips are proving to be really useful in completing our coverage of the UK coast; they're also therapeutic during the process of house selling and buying....
After arriving at the CAMC site near Brockenhurst in the New Forest, cleaning the mud-spattered 'van and a relaxing evening we head off to Hurst Spit the next morning. As is mostly the case on these jaunts, the reality is an uplifting surprise after reading about our destination in the magic book. Hurst spit is a couple of miles of shingle bank which leads to another of Henry VIII's castles, Hurst Castle - but this one is extensive, having been extended and having seen use in the world wars. We walk briskly there and back, shunning the ferry..
The 38 ton Victorian guns on display in their mountings complete with shells; wouldn't like to be around when these go off.
Feeling rather pleased with ourselves, we visit the close by Keyhaven, a village on the edge of a small inlet next to marshes that were once used for salt production but now provide a temporary home for migrating birds. The many birds surrounding the moored yachts in the setting sun provide an atmospheric background to our rather muddy walk along the sea-wall footpath.
But we get a welcome from a New Forest pony as we approach the site and a cuppa..
Day 3
My goodness, it's wind and rain this morning but it's so cosy and warm in the 'van and we're in no hurry are we? As ever, though, we see some respite coming and head out to Lyndhurst, a rather nice old market town with an old Georgian high street - but it's also a through route though and quite risky to cross at some points; goodness knows how the Saturday market on the street works. Great coffee shop though....
Day 4
After a relaxing few hours listening to the rain and wind again we venture out under clearing skies to spend a great couple of hours or so at Bucklers Hard, now a sort of living museum of 18th Century cottages leading up from the Beaulieu River on the privately owned Beaulieu estate. It was an important shipbuilding between 1698 and 1827, launching what is said to be Nelson's favourite ship, Agamemnon in 1781.
After a trip on the river, we head off to Lepe Country Park; on the way we pass the ruins of St Leonard's Grange but pass is the operative word now as the wind is rising and when we arrive at the country park, after taking in the view, we head for a pot of tea and a view of the windswept shore from the restaurant window. Time for 'home'.
Day 5
We head for Calshot today - obviously beacause it's in our magic book - but there are two attractions here. Calshot Castle, another of Henry VIII's defences, was used in the world wars as a defensive post as it is sited at the estuary mouth, guarding Southampton from attack by sea. Today it's almost hidden behind the massive hangers that once housed Britain's world leading seaplane industry.
The famous Schneider trophy winning planes operated from here and the hangers bear evocative names; Sunderland, Schneider and Sopwith. The vast Sunderland hanger is now a brilliant indoor activities centre, operated by the district council.
The tall chimney of the old Fawley power station looms menacingly from the opposite shore of the spit which is lined by a colourful line of beach huts with kayaks and kite- surfing boards drawn up onto the pebbles.
Well worth the visit, this - a strange place, though. It's sobering to stand here and think of times past - from the frenetic activity of leading edge aircraft design and operation to the construction of the castle for Henry VIII. We stand here, just at a moment in time.
Day 6
A mini adventure.
We drive to Hythe which is on the opposite side of the estuary to Southampton, our destination. It's worth noting that it's a suburb of Southampton and that, between 1930 and 1940, some of the great flying boats were designed here.
Anyway, we're travelling to Southampton via the old Hythe foot ferry which leaves from the 100 year old Hythe pier.
We buy tickets with the 'phone from an easy to use high-tech machine. The tickets have a bar code on them but that's not needed because this is where high tech stops and we go back in time; we board the ancient narrow gauge pier railway which takes us out to board the ferry.
Much to my amazement I actually sit on a seat used by George VI - but, given the state of the carriage, I can believe it.
No complaints at all, though, as the service works as seamlessly the Swiss railway system.
Southampton is a fascinating mix of ancient of modern and we spend a few hours here before heading home again.
Here's a selection of pics:
The 12th Century Bargate
We have to 'do' the coast between Portsmouth and Southampton in the future, so we resolve to return again, this time booking ahead to visit the Maritime museum. We have a slightly scary lunch in a rather nice Turkish restaurant as, halfway through, a large group of students arrive, hugging loudly and mixing between their groups of six, which is not now permitted (for very good reasons as Covid is rapidly increasing at this time). Hopefully we'll still be alive to continue this blog.
So, after a long trip home, driving through high winds and rain, we park the 'van on our drive for a thorough clean and emptying before we put it away - because this is the end of our coastal tour for 2020. It's also the end of cleaning the 'van on our drive because we won't be doing that from our new home. All change.
The coastal tour's finished much later than usual because we're normally in our Spanish home by now... but this is 2020 and we're all headed for a new lockdown both here and there.... and we can't risk being locked down in España with a house purchase contract to sign, can we?
So that's the end of this page. The 'van is having an adventure without us - but you can read about that HERE
See you in 2021
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